Sunday, July 31, 2011

Leaving Nogales

July 28

A few hours later, we left the Mexican side. We walked past the American checkpoint, where we were stopped and our passports inspected. The Customs officer, after noticing I was Canadian and with NMD people, pulled me aside and took me into the building. I told him I was with No More Deaths, because I was curious about the situation on the border and about the fact so many people are dying.

I was taken to a small office with dimly lit lights, and was told to stay there while they do a ‘background check’ on me. He took my passport and driver’s identification. My friends were told to leave, of course they refused, and stayed outside the building. I was a bit nervous, but also knew that I do not regret anything I've done with NMD and would do it again. I began praying.

After a few minutes, the officer came back and told me I can go. He noticed my cellphone, which I tried to text the volunteer co-ordinator with to let her know what was going on. He looked very angry and loudly told me to never have it on again, and that he doesn’t want to see it again. It was a bit intimidating, but nothing compared to what migrants face.


People queuing up at the US Customs, waiting to enter the United States. This is where I was briefly detained.

Separation barrier

I took these pictures from the American side. The white BP trucks standing by the fence are waiting for people who will try to come across.



La Violencia

One of the most disturbing things NMDers and people who work with deported migrants do is listen to testimonies of abuse. Many migrants who has been picked up by BP and deported has a story of mistreatment

As No More Deaths began working in Mexico, the volunteers would hear stories from migrants about how they were treated after being picked up by law enforcement on the American side of the border. Some were picked up and arrested by agents who saw them as fellow human beings, and who provided water and food. These people were performing a task that required them to send desperate people back to a country where they could not support themselves, yet tried to treat the people in their care as humanly as possible while carrying out their orders. I have spoken to migrants who have told me that while in custody they were fed and provided with water, and that no one hit them or insulted them or harmed them.

However, others have different stories, stories of abuse. A volunteer began compiling their testimonies, and in 2006, a report was released citing over 350 testimonies of mistreatment ranging from denial of food and water, to overcrowding in cells, to verbal and ‘mild’ ranging to severe physical and even sexual abuse. It can be read on the NMD website, and is quite chilling.

Between 2008 and 2011, volunteers began interviewing migrants and collecting stories of abuse and mistreatment. A report is due to come out halfway through September. I have been told it consists of 12,000 testimonies.

I spoke to Dave, one of NMDs long-term volunteers and who agreed to let me use his name. He has been working with group since it started, and has witnessed as well as heard stories of abuse of migrants by Border Patrol. A few years ago, Dave was driving down the highway on his way to Arivaca. He saw something something shameful and despicable. A BP agent arrested a family of seven people in the desert. It included an elderly woman, and three children aged 7 to 9 years of age in his estimation. The agent forced everyone to kneel on the hot asphalt, with their hands up behind their heads, like prisoners of war. No one was allowed to move. They stayed like this for at least ten minutes before a paddy wagon pulled up.

Dave has met migrants who have arrived from BP custody with broken limbs and fractured bones. This comes from a little game that some agents like to engage in. Arrested migrants are put into the back of a paddy wagon (also called ‘dog catchers’), where there are of course no seatbelts and people have to stand. Then the drivers ride their vehicles at fast speed over rocks, bumps, hills. It must be a thrill at the front for the officers wearing seatbelts and enjoying the view. Meanwhile, the terrified people in the back are thrown around like rag dolls. Fingers, arms, legs, ribs bruise and break as they are flung around. Sometimes air conditioning is turned on full blast, to a level where people are freezing. Other times hot air is released, to make the ride even more miserable and agony filled.

Migrants who are detained report agents calling them “putos” (bitches), “pendejos” (assholes), as well as racist terms. Often the agents doing this to them themselves are also Hispanic. Perhaps they are trying to prove their loyalty to their nation by showing they can be just as cruel as those who write laws targeting their brothers and sisters on the other side of the border.

I spoke to a migrant who reported being arrested with his friend. At the BP station, his friend was thrown to the ground by a white agent, who began kicking him in the stomach and yelling at him, calling him a “black shit”. That really offended his African American fellow officer- not that the man was being kicked, but that his fellow officer was using a slur that was offensive to members of his racial group. The agent stopped the racial insults but made sure to kick the man again before he left him alone. I spoke to another man who told me he was not mistreated.

Things are not much better in Mexico. Migrants are seen as a target of choice by a multitude of gangs, criminal networks, and now even the drug cartels have moved in. Nogales is a very dangerous place. Migrants are often kidnapped and held for ransom. Relatives living in Southern Mexico or Guatemala or other places where they are from get phone calls from the thugs demanding money for their loved ones’ release. Those whose families can pay are released, sometimes after suffering a beating. Those whose families cannot sometimes end up dead.

I remember hearing loud police siren wails and when I looked down the street, I saw five black police pick up trucks speeding by in a line. In the back, were black clothed officers clutching automatic weapons. I have never seen police this heavily armed anywhere in the world, except the West Bank. The drug cartels in Northern Mexico are extremely heavily armed and fight their wars against each other as well as against anyone who is opposed to them or suspected of being against them with Uzis, bombs, and the newest firearms. One young man I spoke to told me he fears for his life. Sicarios, hired killers, are known to open fire and machine gun people down on the streets for no explicable reason at times.

The few migrants I spoke to and asked what they think of the police all had low opinions. The police are corrupt, they said, and target the poor. It is far worse in Juarez, on the border with Texas. Whatever brutalities the cartels commit in Nogales, are magnified in Juarez. Thousands are murdered there every year. They include gang members and cartel members killed in crime wars, but also thousands of innocent bystanders who are gunned down in random attacks or killed in kidnappings. Drug rehab clinics have been sprayed with bullets. People are kidnapped and mutilated bodies are found days later on the streets, or they are simply buried in mass graves.

Juarez police officers have been known to take deported migrants aside, on pretext of having ‘wrong papers’ or just to conduct interviews. Then the victims were sold to extortion rings, who called up their families demanding ransom. Those whose loved ones could pay survived. The others didn’t.

August 24, 2010, saw the worst atrocity perpetrated against migrants to date. Seventy four men and women traveling from El Salvador, Ecuador, Brazil and Guatemala were stopped by members of the Zetas drug cartel in Tamaulipas, a province in northeastern Mexico. The migrants were ordered to smuggle drugs, and the younger men were told they would be paid $1,000 a day to be assassins for the cartel. What happened next is a testimony of heroism of the highest order. Every single one of the people refused. They were probably not naïve or ignorant of what the consequences would be of such a choice. But nevertheless their answer was unanimous- everyone said “no”. They were taken to a ranch and the shooting started. By the time the killers were finished, seventy two people lay dead. Two survived by pretending to be lifeless, and later escaped.

There are thousands and thousands of stories of tears and tragedy and inhumanity perpetrated against these people, whose only ‘crime’ is wanting a better life.

Some services offered in Nogales


Bus station. The migrants are sitting underneath the roof, the area is much bigger than it looks. From here, people also make phone calls to families and loved ones on phones provided by No More Deaths.


Comedora

Nogales NMDers

Some of these people volunteer in Nogales for a few weeks, and then return to their homes, like myself. Others have been doing this for years. They are fluent or near fluent in Spanish, and come by with a host of other skills as well. In addition to helping in the various projects run by Mexican NGOs, they also compile abuse testimonies and try to reclaim confiscated items from Border Patrol. They make a big difference too.


L and D.


Steve

Making a difference


This guy used to live and work in America since he was brought in when he was three years old. ICE caught him and deported him. He decided to stay in Nogales and serve people who have been deported. He helps run things in the bus station.


This man is a barber and comes to the camp to offer his services for free. He also is a great musician, and played his guitar for the people.

These guys are the real heroes. They serve their countrymen and other people from Latin and South America who have suffered through hell. They are there on a daily basis, giving their time and talents to make a difference. Both men have given permission for their pictures to be taken and displayed on here.

Nogales

July 28

We arrive in Mexico. I go with M and V. V is the volunteer co-ordinator, and agreed to give us a tour. There we meet several other volunteers who have been working there.

Nogales is a city of approximately 159,000 people, and on the border with the United States. We cross from the American side to the Mexican side. Walking through the gate, no one checks our passports. We only see the Nogales that is close to the American side but it is quite an experience. Tacquito stands are set up along the street. There is a graveyard that is so colourfully decorated sometimes it’s hard to associate with a place of death. Houses dot the surrounding hills. Mexico is a beautiful country with beautiful people, yet also one with a lot of suffering. An estimated 44.2 percent of its population live in poverty. 10.2 percent live in extreme poverty. It is also the second richest country in Latin and South America.

Nogales is also one of the cities in Mexico in which deported migrants are dropped off by the US Border Patrol. Some have been caught that very same day and deported. Others have been sitting in prison for weeks and months. The deportees come in all ages, shapes and sizes; men, women and children. I see kids who can’t be more than 6 years old clutching on to their mothers in one of the centers.

They are dropped off from large Wackenhut buses, left completely on their own. Not infrequently, their belongings are taken away in BP or ICE custody- wallets, shoelaces, id. Money often goes missing.

NMD began partnering up with Mexican NGOs to try to provide some relief for the hundreds who are dropped off here everyday. According to Steve, one of NMD’s long-term volunteers; Currently, an estimated 250 people are deported from the US to Nogales every day. Only a few years ago, it was 800 to 1200.

Some of the deportees get to go to a comedora- a soup kitchen- which was started with help of the Catholic Church. There is room for 70 people in the morning and 70 in the afternoon, about 140 people use it everyday. Then people are taken In for a few days by a program ran by the Mexican government, Grupo Beta, which provides people a few days to 2 weeks of shelter as they try to regain their bearings and decide where to go next. Many of the deportees have lived in the US for several years, and their whole lives are behind them. Others paid a lot of saved up money to get to the US so they could work to support folks back home, now they are back at square one.

What really impresses me is the fact that NMD is there only in a supporting role. The people who are co-ordinating the work and are in charge are Mexicans. So are most of the volunteers. We are supporting them, and send volunteers over to help serve food, assist people in making phone calls to their loved ones, give some medical help. But they are the ones in charge, helping their countrymen and women. They give their time willingly and without asking for any money in return for their help.

There is a bus station that offers bus rides to various parts of Mexico for those who want to go back, and the rates are low. Shockingly, for me, most of the people who were recently deported intend to try crossing the desert again. Some have survived near death but are ready and willing to enter this hell again.

One of the things that most stands out for me is the wall. It is an ugly metal structure that runs through the city and separates the Mexican side from the American side. On one side are hundreds of thousands of people who, in spite of their best efforts, have been pushed to poverty by economic forces and problems created in part by their leaders and in part by the leaders on the other side of the fence. Where they know there are jobs that pay a living wage. Where many have families.

Strung out every few hundred metres along the fence, on the other side, are Border Patrol vehicles waiting and ready to catch anyone who tries to cross. Pictures to come later.


Cars driving into the States from Mexico. You can see the street vendors at work.


Nogales street view


Just before entering Mexico